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Argan oil in soap making

Published by The Soap Brain Team

Argan oil is a conditioning soap-making oil rich in oleic acid (45%). A gram of it turns to soap with about 0.135 g of NaOH (lye). It makes a mild, gentle bar and pairs well with a harder, cleansing oil. Most soapers use it at 5–10% of their oils.

Fatty-acid profile

Argan oil is a gentle, conditioning oil, mostly unsaturated fatty acids that leave a mild, moisturising bar with a softer, lower lather. It pairs naturally with a harder, more cleansing oil to firm the bar up and add bubbles. Because its polyunsaturated (linoleic/linolenic) share is on the higher side, watch the total across the whole recipe and consider a modest antioxidant to guard against rancidity and DOS.

Argan oil is about 13% saturated fat and 80% unsaturated — that unsaturated majority is what makes it conditioning and slower to trace, but softer on its own.

Fatty-acid composition of Argan oil
Fatty acid Share What it does in soap
Oleic acid 45% a monounsaturated fatty acid that makes a gentle, conditioning, moisturising bar with a slick, lower lather and a slower trace
Linoleic acid 35% a polyunsaturated fatty acid that is very conditioning but oxidises readily — a driver of DOS (dreaded orange spots) at high levels
Palmitic acid 13% a saturated fatty acid that builds a hard, long-lasting bar with a stable, creamy lather

Argan oil in the bar

Argan oil gives a mild, low, slick lather on its own. Blended with a bubbly, cleansing oil it contributes body and mildness while the partner oil supplies the bubbles.

Argan oil traces at a fairly typical pace; how fast the whole batch moves will depend mostly on the other oils, your temperatures and any fragrance you add.

In a blend Argan oil is the conditioning, skin-feel component and can often make up the bulk of the oils. Add a firmer, more cleansing oil — coconut, palm or a hard butter — to bring hardness and bubbles the finished bar would otherwise miss.

Closest substitutes for Argan oil

Out of Argan oil? These oils behave most like it in a bar — ranked by how close their hardness, cleansing and conditioning profile and lye (SAP) requirement are. The numbers are predicted properties for a 100% single-oil bar, not a safety guide; always recalculate the lye when you swap an oil.

Argan oil compared with its closest substitute oils
Oil Hardness Cleansing Conditioning SAP (NaOH)
Argan oil (this oil) 13 0 80 0.135
Sesame oil 14 0 80 0.137
Corn oil 15 0 83 0.135
Soybean oil 15 0 83 0.136
Peanut oil 13 0 76 0.135

Using Argan oil in a recipe

One gram of Argan oil needs about 0.135 g of NaOH (sodium hydroxide) to turn fully to soap, within a documented range of 0.128–0.143 g/g across sources. The calculator below uses this value; always confirm the lye weight before you mix.

Its iodine value is about 104 — a higher value, pointing to a softer, more conditioning bar that is more prone to rancidity (DOS). Iodine value is only a rough guide, not a hard rule, but it gives you a feel for how a bar built around this oil will wear.

Most soapers use Argan oil at roughly 5–10% of their oils.

Maker's note: Rich conditioning oil, often used as a fine superfat; profile similar to sunflower or sweet almond.

Calculate lye for Argan oil

The calculator below is pre-loaded with Argan oil. Enter your weights, add other oils, and it works out the exact NaOH (lye) weight, water and quality numbers. Always weigh lye, oils and water — never measure by volume, wear gloves and eye protection, and add lye to water (never the reverse).

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Where these numbers come from

Every figure on this page is backed by at least two independent references, listed below — so you can check our work instead of taking our word for it.

SAP data last updated · 51 oils covered.

Argan oil soap FAQ

Can you make soap with 100% Argan oil?
It is not recommended. Argan oil shows its best in a blend, usually up to about 10% of the oils. On its own the bar would be unbalanced — too soft or low-lathering for everyday use.
What superfat should I use with Argan oil?
A 5% superfat is a safe, common starting point for recipes using Argan oil; adjust to taste once you know how the finished bar feels. Never drop to 0% or below without a deliberate reason — the calculator will ask you to confirm it.
Does Argan oil speed up or slow down trace?
Argan oil traces at a fairly typical pace; how fast the whole batch moves will depend mostly on the other oils, your temperatures and any fragrance you add.