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Camellia / tea seed oil in soap making

Published by The Soap Brain Team

Camellia / tea seed oil is a conditioning soap-making oil rich in oleic acid (82%). A gram of it turns to soap with about 0.136 g of NaOH (lye). It makes a mild, gentle bar and pairs well with a harder, cleansing oil. Most soapers use it at 10–30% of their oils.

Fatty-acid profile

Camellia / tea seed oil is a gentle, conditioning oil, mostly unsaturated fatty acids that leave a mild, moisturising bar with a softer, lower lather. It pairs naturally with a harder, more cleansing oil to firm the bar up and add bubbles.

Camellia / tea seed oil is about 9% saturated fat and 90% unsaturated — that unsaturated majority is what makes it conditioning and slower to trace, but softer on its own.

Fatty-acid composition of Camellia / tea seed oil
Fatty acid Share What it does in soap
Oleic acid 82% a monounsaturated fatty acid that makes a gentle, conditioning, moisturising bar with a slick, lower lather and a slower trace
Palmitic acid 9% a saturated fatty acid that builds a hard, long-lasting bar with a stable, creamy lather
Linoleic acid 8% a polyunsaturated fatty acid that is very conditioning but oxidises readily — a driver of DOS (dreaded orange spots) at high levels

Camellia / tea seed oil in the bar

Camellia / tea seed oil gives a mild, low, slick lather on its own. Blended with a bubbly, cleansing oil it contributes body and mildness while the partner oil supplies the bubbles.

High-oleic Camellia / tea seed oil traces slowly, which gives you comfortable working time for swirls and layers. In exchange the bar is soft at first and rewards a longer cure — four to eight weeks — to harden fully and last in the shower.

In a blend Camellia / tea seed oil is the conditioning, skin-feel component and can often make up the bulk of the oils. Add a firmer, more cleansing oil — coconut, palm or a hard butter — to bring hardness and bubbles the finished bar would otherwise miss.

Closest substitutes for Camellia / tea seed oil

Out of Camellia / tea seed oil? These oils behave most like it in a bar — ranked by how close their hardness, cleansing and conditioning profile and lye (SAP) requirement are. The numbers are predicted properties for a 100% single-oil bar, not a safety guide; always recalculate the lye when you swap an oil.

Camellia / tea seed oil compared with its closest substitute oils
Oil Hardness Cleansing Conditioning SAP (NaOH)
Camellia / tea seed oil (this oil) 9 0 90 0.136
Pomegranate seed oil 8 0 91 0.135
Sunflower oil, high-oleic 9 0 91 0.135
Walnut oil 7 0 88 0.137
Kukui nut oil 6 0 90 0.135

Using Camellia / tea seed oil in a recipe

One gram of Camellia / tea seed oil needs about 0.136 g of NaOH (sodium hydroxide) to turn fully to soap, within a documented range of 0.128–0.142 g/g across sources. The calculator below uses this value; always confirm the lye weight before you mix.

Its iodine value is about 85 — a moderate value, a good all-round balance of hardness and conditioning. Iodine value is only a rough guide, not a hard rule, but it gives you a feel for how a bar built around this oil will wear.

Most soapers use Camellia / tea seed oil at roughly 10–30% of their oils.

Maker's note: "Asian olive oil" — mild and high-oleic, with olive-oil-like stability.

Calculate lye for Camellia / tea seed oil

The calculator below is pre-loaded with Camellia / tea seed oil. Enter your weights, add other oils, and it works out the exact NaOH (lye) weight, water and quality numbers. Always weigh lye, oils and water — never measure by volume, wear gloves and eye protection, and add lye to water (never the reverse).

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Where these numbers come from

Every figure on this page is backed by at least two independent references, listed below — so you can check our work instead of taking our word for it.

SAP data last updated · 51 oils covered.

Camellia / tea seed oil soap FAQ

Can you make soap with 100% Camellia / tea seed oil?
It is not recommended. Camellia / tea seed oil shows its best in a blend, usually up to about 30% of the oils. On its own the bar would be unbalanced — too soft or low-lathering for everyday use.
What superfat should I use with Camellia / tea seed oil?
A 5% superfat is a safe, common starting point for recipes using Camellia / tea seed oil; adjust to taste once you know how the finished bar feels. Never drop to 0% or below without a deliberate reason — the calculator will ask you to confirm it.
Does Camellia / tea seed oil speed up or slow down trace?
High-oleic Camellia / tea seed oil traces slowly, which gives you comfortable working time for swirls and layers. In exchange the bar is soft at first and rewards a longer cure — four to eight weeks — to harden fully and last in the shower.